Author | Discussion |
hartech 1051 posts 54 months | Monday 26th October 2009 
I have posted so much technical feedback on this subject - I don't intend to repeat it all. However there is some evidence that the heads crack more often if the owner at some time drove too hard from cold - as it is the greater differential expansion across the cylinder head casting from engines warmed up too quickly - that increases the fatigue stress and cracks some heads.
However I don't agree that when buying such a car the owner should be restricted to any particular typ of driving unless the handbook states how to warm it up and how long to drive before opening the throttle and the diagnostics can record that.
The same problem does not afflict all high performance engines from the same manufacturer - so it must be possible to design out the problem - but if you own one - it would be better to warm it up thoroughly and gradually increasing loads before going flat out - as this will extend the life of all the parts (the only problem being establishing how previous owners treated the car).
Although the number of engines failing is still relatively low - we receive so many for repair that we have a good idea what problems and complications they involve and we have increasing difficulties with engines under other proprietory warranties that are refusing claims despite the fault being exactly as described as "being covered" - since it is ending up with fully stripped engines neatly laid out on organised shelving and a car and auxiliaries being stored - then sitting there for weeks while the owners try and force some benefit out of the warranty provider. Meanwhile more cars keep coming through the door and despite doubling the engine rebuild capacity - we are running out of organised storage space which will limit the number of new repairs we can handle and will soon have to consider charges or time limits when these arguments protract between the various parties involved.
It seems from this experience that whether or not the warranty provider is prepared to pay out depends more on the amount of money involved than the legitimacy of the claim - allowing the occasional water pump say but refusing a full engine rebuild (despite apparently covering it) relying on our unfair legal system to string things out so long that most owners would run out of patience, money or need a car in use again anyway.
Baz
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Simon Bags 158 posts 12 months | Monday 26th October 2009 
Reading between those lines it seems as though no matter how good the warranty is to cover these problems, you may not get anything sorted and indeed end up shelling out of your own pocket to put the problem right?
Begs the question of why bother if the warranty company will pick the contract to pieces to get out of paying up?
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Tony Truman 2 posts 11 months | Thursday 29th October 2009 
Hi there I have a 996 C4 Cabrio 2001 face lift 55000 miles for the past 2 years ive coverd 30,000 of them. Only had new breaks and discs, new indicator stalk, new tyers. Runs like a banshi, very impressed, fingers crossed for the next 12 months. Although on last service report £650 said the clutch is wearing out, but as it goes in gear and dont slip, i will wait until it gives up. LOL good fun!! TT
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Tony Truman 2 posts 11 months | Thursday 29th October 2009 
Another small issue, is the car smoking on start up, not every time but some times each day and then could be months before it does it again, big smoke though, very embaaaaraaaasing!! TT
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hartech 1051 posts 54 months | Thursday 29th October 2009 
Just a couple of points Tony, wearing down the clutch to the rivetts and still driving it can damage the flywheel and require its replacement as well and its expensive.
The oil separators fail and when they do they draw oil into the engine that can get sucked into the inlet ports (causing smoking) and hydraulically lock the cylinder, bending rods or damaging big end shells. It is not very expensive to replace - I would get that and the clutch both done now (assuming the clutch really does need replacing).
Baz
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Cicerosecundus 9 posts 11 months | Saturday 31st October 2009 
I am in New York. I have a 2001 Carerra 4 with 91,000 miles and am still on the original clutch. To date, my C4 has had no oil leaks, no engine failure, no unusual engine noises and burns very little oil. This is my sixth sports car, the others were an Austin Healy Spright, a TR4, a Morgan Drophead Coupe, a 912 Porsche and a Refurbished TR3A. Becase I leaned to drive using mostly British sports cars, I always heel and toe to pop the revs at the shift point so that when I let the clutch out there is little or no shock to the drive train. My former Morgan had a Moss transmission with limited synchromesh gearing and I had to learn to match the revs to the gear being changed or there would be a painfully loud sound of gears grinding. I suspect that most Porsche owners did not learn to drive on the kind of cars that I had and may tend to let the clutch out with vigor. Why else am I at 91K miles on the factory original clutch? The manager of a shop in NJ (not a Porsche agency) that services and rebuilds racing and street Porsches told me that catastrophic intermediate shaft bearing failure is a known problem with the 966 engine. I was told that a 966 tends to "hit the wall" on or before 70,000 miles and that if a 966 gets substantially beyond that milage, it is unlikely that the Intermediate shaft bearing will fail. Two suggestions were give to me by that service manager that would aid in protecting the weak Intermediate Shaft Bearing: (1) change the oil at 5,000 miles, not the factory recommended 15,000 miles and (2) use a 5W40 oil rather than Mobile 1's 0W40 as the 0W40 is allegedly too thin to adequately lubricate the Intermediate Shaft Bearing. I bought this Porsche when it came off of a three year lease with 26,000 miles on it. For the first 45,000 miles I am responsible for I changed the oil filter in between oil changes at 15,000 mile services. After I put on that first 45,000 miles, I switched to changing the oil in between 15,000 mile servicing - so I would have an oil and filter change at roughly 7,500 mile intervals. This C4 is used to highway commute between Connecticut and New York. Traffic normally flows at between 75 and 85 MPH. My C4 is rarely used for shot stop and go trips and has never been "tracked". My 996 engine runs better after my many highway miles than it ran when I bought it. Of course I have no way to know whether fate is waiting to ambush me with the 966 engine. Kindly visit a Site on the Internet that sells parts kits that allow one to upgrade the Intermediate Shaft Bearing, which I am going to do when my C4 goes in for a clutch: http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html This site gives detailed information about why this bearing tends to fail and why their replacement parts will be much more stable. Based on the advice I got at the New Jersey Porsche service shop, I am now switching to a 5W40 AGIP oil and will henceforward be changing at a 5,000 mile interval. When I finally do have to refurbish my clutch, I will replace the Intermediate Shaft Bearing with InEngineering's replacement parts. Despite what I have been told by the New Jersey service manager, I have become mistrustful due to the accusations made against Porsche on the Internet regarding engine failure in the 996 engine. Regards, Cicerosecundus (my Internet Nom de Plume) Bronxville, NY
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Cicerosecundus 9 posts 11 months | Saturday 31st October 2009 
Re warming up a 996 engine: my mechanic told me that I should not warm up a cold engine at idle; that I should start the engine and immediately drive away but keep the RPMs under 3,000 until the engine temperature needle shows that the engine is substantially warmed up. I asked why this engine has that requirement, as my other sports cars needed to be warmed up at idle before driving off. Answer: the 996 engine needs more RPM than at idle to get oil moving around in the wearable parts. Winter in New York can be quit cold and the 996 warms up fast when driven at a lower RPM.
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hartech 1051 posts 54 months | Monday 2nd November 2009 
That's spot on - never leave an engine idling for ages but drive off with moderate throttle and revs and don't give it full throttle or max revs until 15 mins or so and build up to it gradually. It is true about oil circulation - also of course the oil pressure rises with revs until the relief valve opens but is lower at tickover - but also remember the piston clearances etc are not right until operating temperature has soaked through all the castings and exhaust system etc - to run as it was designed for.
Baz
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996Weissach 293 posts 12 months | Tuesday 3rd November 2009 
Both the GT3 and 996 Carrera run at a typical ~85C, but the Carrera takes almost - three times as long - to reach this temperature.
The coolant may have reached operating temperature but this does not mean a thorough heat soak (as Baz has described) so I always allow time beyond this (I can tell from the feel of the gearbox - if the gearbox is soaked then the engine must be). This is all carried out with not more than 3000rpm - this is a figure I learned through my BMW days but seems a reasonable and practicable number to continue with. A driving warm up does give higher oil pressure and this must be good because higher/maximum pressure must mean better circulation (a bit like a healthy heart!).
The way I see it is that with a progressive and gentle warm up there is a more even expansion, at a slower rate in some key areas, which must be good for longevity of running surfaces, and mating castings (expansion and contraction works the metal and must cause fatigue?). The Carrera series, from my personal experience, requires a little more patience to attain operating temperature. This of course makes it more vulnerable to < operating temperature abuse since many are likely to be driven without such patience. Once fully warm though, it is one of the most enjoyable engines to operate, even next to the GT3 motor.
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996Weissach 293 posts 12 months | Tuesday 10th November 2009 
Monitored oil pressure in the Carrera this morning. From a cold startup the engine held a fast idle @ ~1000rpm. Oil pressure reading no less than 4.5bar. This pressure remained until over ~70C, where it entered a gradual decline, and began to become proportional to engine speed.
Surely if oil pressure is this high on a cold start, and remains high until a near running temperature has been attained, then surely allowing to warm up @ idle is as safe as a driving warm up? I don't do the former but am just curious and would like opinion.
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bordseye 696 posts 29 months | Monday 16th November 2009  It doesnt do any engine any good to operate at constant revs since that puts all the wear in the same area. And its also the case than the engine will warm up quicker when used rather than idled, and since the large majority of engine wear occurrs when the engine is cold, that has to be a good thing.
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930gaz 119 posts 42 months | Monday 21st December 2009 
I had a 996 C2 1998 for two years and it was spot on. I got it with 43000 and put it up to 50500. I am told that the new 997 TURBO are using an engine like this, lets see what happens with that. As for my car, would it put me off buying one again, i dont think so.
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Finster 44 posts 45 months | Saturday 26th December 2009 
Just as a matter of interest has anyone ever had a replacement engine go pop? Just thinking over a purchase that has had a replacment engine fitted two years ago - now a safe bet?
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Blue Streak 2 4 posts 9 months | Wednesday 30th December 2009 
TUV Reliability Stats Guys I just checked the TUV reliability stats and thought this would add some useful balance to the debate. The last major survey they did on 996's was done in 2007 and they got the following results: Vehicle Year 996 Survey Size 996 Fault Rate All Vehicles Fault Rate 1999 96 Cars 6.3% 15.8% 2001 107 Cars 3.7% 10.7% 2003 113 Cars 3.5% 5.9% Now assuming a small proportion of the faults are actually engine failures then it looks like the TUV stats suggest a relatively low fault (and therefore engine failure rate). Check it out yourself at: www.anusedcar.com/index.php/tuv-model/porsche-996
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Blue Streak 2 4 posts 9 months | Thursday 31st December 2009 
Reading the TUV page a bit more carefully they take a sample of 500 cars a model and the numbers of cars I said above is actually the number of models in the comparison.
So, for the 2007 year report they compared a sample of 500 996's versus a panel with another 113 models in (Each with a sample of 500 per model). The 2003 996 in that years report (2007) had a fault rate (All faults)of 3.5% versus the average fault rate of the panel of similarly aged cars of 5.9%.
Hence if you believe our German friends the 996 is very reliable. The 993 by comparison does just slightly better but it's not a large difference. 1997 993 has a fault rate of 6.8% vs a 1999 vintage 996 at 6.3%.
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hartech 1051 posts 54 months | Monday 4th January 
Unless I have misunderstood your point - Blue Streak 2 - I think the problem is not so much the fault rate as the actual type of faults contained within the figures (and their costs to repair) and also since we have always stated that the failure rate of engines is very small statistically - if - say over 12 years the engine failure rate is say (for arguments sake), 5% - that equates to an average of 0.4% taken in any one year.
Furthermore - from a sample of 500 cars there would be a good chance that - even if the incidence of a failure was spot on inside the statistical window - it would still only be reported as two failures every year.
What would be more revealing to me in comparing the relative virtues of owning each model would be the average repair costs - as this would then be the issue that enables people to consider the value of preventative maintenance schemes and warranty/maintetance plan costs.
Would you - for example - rather own a car with twice the fault rate, by minimal cost to fix those faults on average - or half the fault rate - but that almost bankrupts you if you are the unlucky one.
I am sure that on this basis - as the 996 and 997 age - the average cost of repairs would exceed most other models (if not all) - although I fully accept that those figures would be heavily loaded by adding in the cost of the rarer engine failures - apart from which - the running costs are very resonable.
This is why - for my money - some form of reasonably priced, reliable protection scheme is essential - as we all accept it is for other issues of similar rarety but similar high cost - if it ever happens - like a house fire or a stolen or crashed car.
Baz
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poison 61 posts 12 months | Monday 4th January 
being an owner of a porsche for only 8 years ,6years 944s2 1989 and currently 1998 2.5 tip boxster i can only say that engine reliability has not been a problem or gear box.
the 944 never seem to use any oil and was always the same as new when it came to servicing and oil change,the boxster has been the same, i do beleive in starting up and driving off asap but at a sensible pace to let the oil warm up i have read in many magazines about the types of oils we should use in our cars and how we should change the type as they get older and have increased mileage both of my cars have never suffered with oil leaks am i just lucky!
just out of intrest how much does it cost on average to change an rms?
i do miss not having an oil pressure gauge in the boxster so you can see how the oil is doing as it gets hotter why dont they put one in instead of other unwanted instruments.
i know oil on the floor is annoying but as you know it always looks worse as it spread like nothing else on your concrete garrage floor or drive i check mine every saturday with out fail along with the water etc this in my opinion is the best way to avoid costly repairs and of course a good service record if your buying a used vehicle.
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hartech 1051 posts 54 months | Friday 29th January 
Just to add to the general thrust - we have now stripped our first 997S 3.8 engine and found that we can also make liners for these (and they are now in production) and this now makes a range from 2.5, 2.7, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6 and 3.8 engines.
Porsche have taken the trouble to modify the casting to increase the outer liner diameter for these bigger pistons by 3mm and having done so I wonder why they could not have used that casting for the 3.2, 3.4 and 3.6 and avoided liner cracking as a result of the additional 3mm diameter (1.5mm wall thickness) they would incorporate?
The 3.8 only has the same liner thickness as the 3.4 and 3.6 - so may well experience the same ovality problems in time.
Baz
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bcnrml 1907 posts 47 months | Friday 29th January 
hartech said:
Just to add to the general thrust - we have now stripped our first 997S 3.8 engine and found that we can also make liners for these (and they are now in production) and this now makes a range from 2.5, 2.7, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6 and 3.8 engines.
Porsche have taken the trouble to modify the casting to increase the outer liner diameter for these bigger pistons by 3mm and having done so I wonder why they could not have used that casting for the 3.2, 3.4 and 3.6 and avoided liner cracking as a result of the additional 3mm diameter (1.5mm wall thickness) they would incorporate?
The 3.8 only has the same liner thickness as the 3.4 and 3.6 - so may well experience the same ovality problems in time.
Baz Careful...... Some 997 owners on here won't thank you for saying any of this. Good to know though. 
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hartech 1051 posts 54 months | Friday 29th January 
Don't shoot the messsenger! I think my most useful role is to inform and if I then didn't do anything to help or support - I suppose it could be regarded as bad form to just criticise and point out failings. However by finding out the weaknesses first and designing, manufacturing and providing cost effective solutions in time - I hope that the information I provide is received as a way out of a nightmare rather than as something to be upset about.
My findings have no influence on whether a particular car or engine fails or not and those that have a Porsche warranty need not worry - but I would hope it would be beneficial for anyone who has a failing and is stuck without a warranty - to know an affordable (or more affordable) solution - than a new engine - is available or for those who may have thought that this engine was not going to have the same problems and who may have therefore not renewed or provided themselves with a warranty - to know in advance that IMHO they should get one on board or potentially suffer the horrendous consequences. Please note that so far all the initial warnings I provided years ago about the technical problems I expected to increase as the years went by have so far proven accurate and as a result on my confidence in those expectatuions we have got well ahead of the game and provided equipment, facilities and people set up to cater for the needs of those in difficulties - in advance.
I guess anyone who thought that buying a 997 would avoid future problems may be a bit narked - but look I didn't design or make it (and if I had it would not have that problem) and if they would rather not know tehn some of them are going to catch a big cold one day and say "why didn't anyone warn us this could happen"!.
I hope therefore that my passing on of this discovery and the corresponding solution - is taken positively by most.
Baz
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