Author | Discussion |
hartech
1051 posts
54 months | Tuesday 15th June 
The water pump\impellors run very close to the crankcase housing and the slightest bearing wear can make them touch and break up
Baz
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Ballcock
3823 posts
56 months | Tuesday 22nd June
hartech said:
The water pump\impellors run very close to the crankcase housing and the slightest bearing wear can make them touch and break up
Baz Am I right in thinking that these impellors are made of some kind of molded plastic as upposed to much stronger materials in older water pumpers Baz?
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hartech
1051 posts
54 months | Wednesday 23rd June
Yes just plastic.
Baz
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kVA
1293 posts
42 months | Wednesday 23rd June
I think that's a good thing actually... Mine's just failed (on a Turbo) and the thought of lots of little bits of sharp metal circulating around the cooling system is not a good one! At least the plastic impeller is unlikely to rip through the rubber hoses and punch holes in the 3 radiator cores!
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Globulator
4478 posts
68 months | Wednesday 23rd June
kVA said:
I think that's a good thing actually... Mine's just failed (on a Turbo) and the thought of lots of little bits of sharp metal circulating around the cooling system is not a good one! At least the plastic impeller is unlikely to rip through the rubber hoses and punch holes in the 3 radiator cores! The latest cheap aftermarket pump I bought for my Peugeot 406 TDI from ECP had a cast bronze impeller on it. Bronze would give you a nice warning of failure with the noise - a small amount of bronze filings will not do any harm - we're not talking about live jigsaws here - just specks of inert metal  A complete impeller disappearing around the cooling system in shards of plastic would concern me far more because a) no warning = very inconvenient, b) no impeller = no cooling = overheating and/or stranded, c) Depending how the plastic shatters you may fail to fish out all the bits.. I guess a water pump is really a maintenance item rather than a 'replace when it fails' item, a bit like the timing chain on a TT.
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911Fiddler
3 posts
28 months | Sunday 25th July
Re the cooling issues mantioned earlier and the lower temperature thermostats idea, an observation: even with new radiators, my 996 (early type) runs hotter, ie perhaps 10c above its normal guage level, to the point that the fans cut in, on warm days, say >18c unless roadspeed is over 45mph or so. Reason: abismal air outlet design resulting in low flow. Ie design cock-up, again. Later 996s and all 997s have slots in the front wheel arch liner to boost flow.
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Risotto
2154 posts
49 months | Monday 26th July
Just sold my 58,000 mile MY2000 996 after a year of ownership. No engine problems at all.
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Cicerosecundus
9 posts
11 months | Wednesday 4th August
Just turned 100K miles on a 2001 Carrera 4. But, when I did the clutch, I also replaced the intermediate shaft bearing assembly, the IMS, the engine and transmission mounts and a few front end parts that were worn. Runs smooth and strong. Does not burn oil. Cicerosecundus
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Pugley
171 posts
29 months | Monday 23rd August
By way of adding a +ve to this thread............. Just sold my 1998 996 C2 after over 2 years. 68k miles burned no oil, used no water, never overheated. Engine sweet as a nut. Properly serviced and always warmed before a thrash! 
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